Theophilio’s Edvin Thompson Brings Jamaican Flair to New York Fashion

“I selected the identify Theophilio for my model to pay homage to my household,” says designer Edvin Thompson, who is thought for his carefree, Caribbean-infused aesthetic. “It was my grandfather’s identify, and it means ‘to be cherished by God.’ ” Thompson moved to the USA from Jamaica in 2002, on the age of 9, together with his mom and siblings; his father adopted shortly thereafter. “I’ve at all times needed to have a good time Jamaica’s previous, current, and future by way of my garments,” he provides. “Jamaica is in every single place—it’s straightforward to attract inspiration from the cultural diaspora. There are lovely Caribbean communities throughout, and I needed to assist construct a bridge from my nation to the world.” The normal mesh tank tops one sees at a Jamaican Carnival are recast in Theophilio collections as cropped knits in softer textiles. The Jamaican flag colours of inexperienced, black, and mustard yellow—what Thompson refers to because the “Rasta Pantone”—seem in each present. After which there’s his very deliberate casting: gleaming Black goddesses with knee-length braids who carry themselves with ease.

Joan Smalls, a buddy of Thompson’s since he charmed her on a photograph shoot in 2021 for Black Vogue Honest, a platform that promotes rising Black designers and Black-owned manufacturers, linked instantly with him, noting his ardour and delight: “As a fellow Caribbean, I’m simply so happy with how Edvin highlights his heritage in his work and stays true to his tradition,” says Smalls, who’s from Puerto Rico. “On high of that, he makes use of upcycled materials when doable, which speaks to his need to make a distinction on this fast-consuming business.”

Thompson held his first vogue present in 2016 together with his buddy Bobby Day, a fellow designer, in a storage on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn. The present, crammed with upcycled items together with denim, leather-based, and oversize cotton shirts that alluded to enjoyable within the solar—core items he has refined and developed through the years—was specific in its island references. Thompson was working out of his condo, as he nonetheless does, and dealing with all points of the enterprise himself, often providing his wares at pop-ups and occasions in and round his Brooklyn neighborhood. In time, his designs gained a following with musicians like Chlöe Bailey and Summer time Walker, they usually began promoting out on websites like Ssense. Then, in 2022, Thompson bought a name from the mannequin Imaan Hammam’s stylist—Hammam was, unbeknownst to him, a fan, and he or she needed to put on Theophilio to that yr’s Met Gala. (The theme was “Gilded Glamour.”) The black semi-sheer frock Thompson designed for Hammam recalled Jazz Age flappers, with a Caribbean twist: Intricate beading created a simulation of peacock feathers, a nod to conventional Carnival costumes. The look was topped off with a beaded web cap and feathered equipment. “I did my sketch for that look the evening after I acquired the request,” says Thompson. “It didn’t even really feel like work to me.”

The day after the earlier yr’s Met Gala, Thompson had came upon about his CFDA nomination for the American Rising Designer of the Yr. “I had misplaced my voice. I used to be in shock. It was simply loopy,” he says. Two months later, he received the award. “They stated my identify, and my soul left my physique.” As he made his strategy to the stage to learn a brief speech written on his cellphone, he seemed round. Staring again at him from the viewers had been Tom Ford and Anna Wintour, “like proud grandparents.” Ford, who despatched the designer flowers after his win, was truly an early affect. “He actually helped me perceive what it’s to be very horny and complex on the similar time,” says Thompson. You may see overt nods to Ford’s Gucci within the logo-emblazoned thong Thompson confirmed in his spring/summer time 2022 assortment. Different inspirations embrace the movies Metropolis of God, Stomach, and Blade, all of which share a dangerously glamorous enchantment. Anime and comedian books are additionally factors of reference. “I needed to be a cartoonist and comedian artist as a child,” he says.

Thompson has plans to proceed increasing Theophilio’s attain with a wider palette, new textile compositions, and extra intricate beadwork. However material isn’t the one medium the designer intends to govern. “I’m engaged on one thing you don’t should put in your physique,” he says. “One trace: You may drink it.” Final December, the designer partnered with the property of Jean-Michel Basquiat for the exhibition “King Pleasure,” on the Starrett-Lehigh constructing in Manhattan. Working with Black Vogue Honest, Thompson and eight different creatives got entry to Basquiat’s artworks and commissioned to make ready-to-wear attire and equipment that will be in dialog with the late artist’s apply. Theophilio’s contributions included two full appears to be like: a high-necked robe with an identical masks, and an embroidered blazer and leather-based trousers impressed by Basquiat’s work, plus a limited-edition T-shirt. “That’s a collaboration I by no means noticed coming,” he says.

Thompson’s goals appear to come back to him earlier than he has time to dream them. However the backing he must maintain them has been slower to materialize. “I develop my collections of their entirety in New York, which could be very costly,” he says. “Sustaining your company and integrity whereas getting actual monetary help isn’t any straightforward feat. However I’m not afraid. I’m truly actually, actually excited.” Then, tapping as at all times into his Jamaican roots, he quips, “Tings don’t run we; we run tings!”

Hair by Dylan Chavles at MA+Group; make-up by Mimi Quiquine for Maison Quiquine at She Likes Cutie. Mannequin: Joan Smalls at IMG fashions. Images assistants: Jupiter Jones, Nikolai Hagen; vogue assistant: India Reed; hair assistant: Olivia Mairead