Nice drape? Examine. Doesn’t wrinkle if you put on it, or stuff it right into a suitcase for trip. You betcha. Simple to dye and for factories to work with. Yup. And, wait, it is also breathable (learn, snug), feels luxurious, and it’s sustainable. The fiber I’m speaking about is Lyocell. Or, in case your fancy, Tencel Lyocell cloth.

No surprise lyocell materials has turn out to be one of many trend industries’ fibers of selection for the previous few years. As a result of, these options make it a very common textile not only for clothes, but in addition house items. However, if Lyocell is so good, why isn’t everybody utilizing it for all the pieces? Don’t fear, I’ll get to that. 

This text goes to show you all about what lyocell is, discover the fibers execs and cons, enable you decide if it’s the appropriate fiber in your clothes clothes, and educate you the place to supply it. 

We’re going to cowl some high-level textile stuff (sciencey). However, it’s essential, and I do know you’ll be able to deal with it. 

BUT BEFORE WE GET STARTED

Have you ever heard concerning the tremendous secret doc that everybody within the trend business makes use of, however nobody is speaking about? Most likely not. That’s as a result of you’ll be able to’t discover it on Google or Instagram (consider me, I’ve tried).

It is a type I’ve used for over 13 years at each job I’ve ever had. Actually everybody from manufacturers to cloth suppliers, use it, however you’ll be able to’t discover it anyplace publicly.  

The very best half? It may lower your sourcing time in half, and prevent tons of cash in product growth! That is the type of information consultants cost the large bucks for. And, I am giving it away at no cost till the top of the month.

So, get able to make trend startup life a complete lot simpler, and GRAB YOUR FREE DOWNLOAD OF THE NOT SO SECRET SOURCING DOC HERE

HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL LEARN

1. What’s the distinction between lyocell and Tencel?
2. What’s lyocell fiber?
3. How is lyocell cloth made?
4. Properties of lyocell materials
1. Stretch 
2. Hand really feel
3. Shrinkage 
4. Absorbency 
5. Does it wrinkle? 
6. Is lyocell higher for decent or chilly climate?
7. Wash and care directions
5. Do you have to use lyocell in your clothes line?
1. Execs
2. Cons
6. This or that?
1. Tencel™ lyocelll vs lyocell
2. Lyocell vs modal
3. Lyocell vs viscose
7. Sustainability – I saved this for the top for a motive
8. The place to purchase Lyocell cloth
9. Extra sustainable fiber sources 

LYOCELL VS TENCEL?

Is lyocell the identical as tencell lyocell? Sure, and no. Is a Xerox and photocopy the identical factor? How a few band-aid and bandage? Or, a Kleenex and tissue? The distinction between every instance in all of those pairs is that one is a reputation model, and the opposite is generic.

Tencel Lyocell cloth is a name-brand model of Lyocell that’s made and managed by the corporate Lenzing.

However, it will get slightly extra complicated. Whereas Lyocell is a fiber, and Tencel is the branded model of that fiber, lyocell can also be a producing course of (I am going to clarify extra in only a minute).

The professional to utilizing Lenzing’s branded Tencel and never the generic type of fiber is that with Lenzing, you get all their traceability, which means you understand precisely the place and the way the fibers had been made. However, the down aspect is that data comes at a better value. 

WHAT IS LYOCELL FIBER?

Lyocell is a 3rd era rayon. First got here viscose, then got here modal (which was an enchancment to the unique viscose system), then got here lyocell. And, all of those fibers are several types of rayons (assume all squares are rectangles, however not all rectangles are squares).

All rayons are semi-synthetic cellulose fibers constructed from plant materials. Viscose, modal, and lyocell are simply several types of rayons. The identical approach, scarlet, fireplace engine, and crimson, are all totally different variations of the colour crimson.

Modal was first invented to attempt to make viscose extra sustainable, which resulted in a semi-closed loop system. Because of this among the waste product from the manufacturing of modal was capable of be reused to make extra. 

Then, lyocell took this a step additional and created an nearly fully closed-loop system. About 99% of the waste from lyocell manufacturing may be put again into the system to make new fibers. Fairly cool, huh?

HOW IS LYOCELL MADE?

Lyocell fibers are made equally to viscose and modal. Lyocell and Tencel Lyrocell are semi- artificial fibers, which means they’re artificial, however are derived from vegetation. A very artificial fiber can be constructed from petroleum, FYI. 

Through the manufacturing course of, wooden pulp is gathered. The pulp is damaged down right into a liquid by chemical substances, and that liquid is pushed by means of a teeny tiny bathe head known as a spinnerette. It’s pushed into an answer on the opposite aspect that may solidify the liquid and switch it into strong yarns.

Technically lyocell materials may be product of any kind of regenerated cellulose, however bamboo and eucalyptus bushes are usually the most well-liked wooden sources. 

Tencel lyocell may also be constructed from several types of wooden pulp, however typically, it’s constructed from eucalyptus solely. 

Each bamboo and eucalyptus are quick rising, to allow them to be harvested and replanted rapidly with out resulting in deforestation. 

BAMBOO FABRIC

I wager you’ve gotten seen bamboo cloth marketed as a sustainable cloth possibility in shops. It’s particularly common in pajamas, and residential items like mattress sheets. 

However, that bamboo cloth isn’t what a variety of manufacturers and the media have led you to consider. It isn’t a pure fiber that comes from the dust like cotton. 

It’s a rayon.

Now, right here is one thing very fascinating that lots of people don’t know. Bamboo rayon may be made in two other ways. It may be made utilizing the outdated viscose rayon system. Or, it may be made utilizing the lyocell system. Viscose bamboos have a tendency to not be a really sustainable possibility, whereas bamboo lyocell that’s made in a closed-loop manufacturing system is.

So, the subsequent time you might be shopping for bamboo mattress sheets, know they’re nothing particular, they’re simply common outdated viscose or lyocell. 

 

WHAT ARE THE PROPERTIES OF LYOCELL FIBERS?

This part goes that can assist you study lyocell cloth properties – all the pieces that Lyocell can and may’t do. This fashion, you’ll be able to decide, for your self, whether it is the most suitable choice in your clothes assortment. 

For simplicity, on this part I’m going to make use of the phrase Lyocell, however please be aware that all the pieces I’m saying additionally applies to Tencel Lyocell cloth and fibers as nicely. 

What does lyocell cloth really feel like?

Lyocell seems like a cotton viscose mix. It’s one of the best of each worlds! Lyocell has that good, slinky, drapable really feel that appears like silk or viscose. However, it tends to really feel extra comfortable and comfy like cotton. 

If you have a look at lyocell materials beneath a microscope, you’ll be able to see tiny hair fibers poking up. This could even be the case should you had been cotton. These little hair fibres are what create that tender really feel (in comparison with a modern and easy hand really feel with silk).

Is lyocell cloth stretchy?

Lyocell, by itself, just isn’t a stretchy fiber. However manufacturers that use it should typically add spandex, elastane, or lycra, that are all very stretchy fibers. Underwear is a standard instance of a lyocell product that additionally has elastane added into the material!

However, there are different methods to get stretchy materials with out including stretchy fibers. 

Knit materials are inclined to have extra engineered stretch than woven materials. That means you should utilize non stretch fibers, and nonetheless get a stretchy cloth. So, in case you are searching for a stretchy lyocell cloth with out elastic, go for a knit over a woven. 

Does lyocell cloth cloth shrink?

Lyocell fibres have a tendency to not shrink considerably. 

However, an important think about cloth shrinkage just isn’t the precise fiber, however the cloth building. Knits, particularly free knits, are inclined to shrink essentially the most. Woven materials are usually extra steady. 

The way in which round shrinkage, regardless of the fiber, is to have the material mill pre-shrink the material by pre-washing it or utilizing a system known as sanforizing. Sanforization is extra eco-friendly as a result of it doesn’t use water. As an alternative a machine vibrates the material to loosen up the yarns, which permits them to shrink as much as the identical approach a washer would. 

Is lyocell cloth absorbent?

It is vitally absorbent. Much more so than cotton. Cotton fibers have an absorbance of about 8%, whereas lyocell materials has round 11%.

This elevated absorbancy is nice for transferring moisture away from the physique, and making a cool-feeling cloth – good for decent climates.

Does lyocell cloth wrinkle?

The flexibility to not wrinkle is definitely known as resiliency within the textile science group.

Resilience is rated on a scale: wonderful, good, honest, or poor. Cotton and viscose have poor resiliency, which means they wrinkle simply. Lyocell materials is available in with a ranking of honest. Whereas that’s not nice, it’s nonetheless higher than the opposite two fiber choices. 

And, in case you are curious, the fiber with among the finest resiliencies is polyester. 

Is lyocell cloth ideally suited for decent climate?

In scorching climate, lyocell is excellent at not simply absorbing but in addition wicking moisture. Wicking appears like a brilliant technical sporty time period, however actually all it means is moisture motion. So, materials which are good at transferring moisture are good at wicking. 

When a material is each good at absorbing and transferring moisture, it is a perfect possibility for decent climates. That’s as a result of it should take in sweat from the wearers physique, then transfer and unfold it out so it evaporates rapidly. The important thing to staying cool isn’t simply absorbing it up; it’s evaporating it rapidly. That evaporation is what creates the feeling of cooling. 

What are the wash and care directions for lyocell cloth?

Whereas lyocell just isn’t as delicate a fiber as silk, I nonetheless advocate washing on chilly and drying on a tumble setting. Fashionable washing machines and dryers create a variety of friction. That friction is what breaks clothes down and makes them look worn out. 

I additionally at all times give shopers the bonus tip to clean garments inside out. By doing this, you’ll defend the material on the surface and assist maintain your garments lookinf new for longer.

PROS OF LYOCELL FIBERS 

One: It’s a Good Different To Natural Cotton

I can’t inform you what number of occasions I’ve had this precise dialog with designers (too many). It goes one thing like this…

Designer – I wish to use solely natural fibers

Me – cool, cotton?

Designer – no, cotton is simply too stiff and inflexible, I used to be one thing flirty and flowy

Me – okay, how about silk

Designer – no, too costly

Me – rayon?

Designer – no, I prefer it, however in accordance with the influencer I observe, rayon isn’t eco pleasant and is killing orangutans

Me – okay, so we’re again to cotton or silk, then

And, we by no means actually get anyplace. 

Lyocell is type of the loophole to this dialog. 

It presents the flowyness that designers are searching for, however it’s rather more sustainable than conventional viscose. It’s the bridge between cotton that’s too stiff, and rayon that results in deforestation and different environmental contamination points.

Two: It Is Extra Sustainable

Lyocell doesn’t contribute to deforestation or chemical substances within the atmosphere and is biodegradable. 

Probably the most essential but ignored points with sustainability is wearability. I at all times inform my purchasers, you’ll be able to have essentially the most sustainable fibers and merchandise on the planet. However, if nobody desires to put on it as a result of it’s ugly or doesn’t carry out nicely, then what’s the level?

Lyocell materials means that you can have your hyperboreal cake and eat it too. 

That’s as a result of, Lyocell is a flexible and sustainable cloth that gives an awesome different to conventional supplies like cotton and rayon. Its potential to wick moisture, form retention, and biodegradability make it ideally suited for decent climates and eco-conscious customers. With correct care, Tencel Lyocell clothes can last more and assist scale back our affect on the atmosphere, as sustainable trend continues to realize reputation.

CONS OF LYOCELL FIBERS

One: It Nonetheless Makes use of Chemical compounds and different Assets

Lyocell just isn’t a pure fiber, although it’s typically constructed from bamboo or eucalyptus. And on the finish of the day, a variety of chemical substances and sources are getting used to create it. Some examples of those chemical substances embrace N-methyl morpholine- N-oxide (NMMO) and amine oxide (MMNO). Each of those chemical substances are thought of very low toxins, and a lot of the chemical substances (as much as 99%) may be reused once more within the course of. 

However, the gathering of the wooden, turning it into pulp, making a fiber, then packaging and delivery these fibers to a yarn spinner is all very useful resource heavy. It requires water, warmth, and tons of electrical energy! Which all result in local weather change. 

When you concentrate on recycled and regenerated supplies usually, ask your self, how rather more wants to enter the system, for one thing new to come back out? And, is the price of these sources price it?

Two: It’s Dear

Model title Tencel Lyocell cloth is much more costly than textiles made with generic fibers. However, in recent times, the value of Tencel lyocell cloth has come down loads. However nonetheless, it is likely one of the most costly fibers round. 

To scale back prices many manufacturers find yourself utilizing generic lyocell materials, which often means much less transparency (learn, perception into put on the fibers got here from and the way they had been made).

Understanding this tradeoff between value and transparency, is, for my part, one of many keys to understanding greenwashing. 

THIS OR THAT 

Once more, I shall be utilizing the time period lyocell to incorporate Tencel Lyocell cloth on this part. 

Okay, so let’s faux we’re designing a womens costume. Within the following examples, I’ll inform you the place lyocell can be your best option or the place different fibers is perhaps a better option. 

Let’s go!

Lyocell VS Cotton

What we’re actually on this comparability is circulation vs construction.

Lots of my purchasers typically complain that they love the texture of cotton, nevertheless it’s simply too stiff for the types they’re creating. They need one thing that strikes and flows within the wind. So, If you would like that straightforward, breezy, consolation of cotton, however slightly extra circulation. Lyocell is the selection.

Lyocell VS Modal

Similar, identical, however totally different.

Do you favor the texture of silk or of cotton? Each materials are going to have a pleasant drape and really feel. They will even each have a variety of motion (assume, not stiff or structured). If you would like your costume to really feel extra like silk and be a bit extra shiny, modal is the best way to go. For a extra pure and matte cotton really feel, select lyocell materials.

Lyocell VS Viscose vs Cotton

For manufacturers that need the texture of cotton, however the drape of silk.

Lyocell materials is not like all different viscose as a result of it’s designed to really feel extra like cotton. The fiber will fibrillate when washed. That means, it should turn out to be slightly bit fuzzy, the best way cotton does. 

Now, there’s a hack to get a viscose to really feel like cotton. And that’s by utilizing staple-length viscose fibers. Viscose is mostly one very lengthy filament fiber. However some producers will lower it up into cotton-size items, and twist these items collectively to type a yarn. The result’s a material that feels loads like cotton.

So, once more, in order for you a cotton really feel with a silk like circulation, the Rolls-Royce rayon of fibers goes to be lyocell. However, in case you are searching for one thing cheaper, you’ll be able to strive staple size (don’t neglect to say that bit) viscose.

For the entire property comparisons of cotton, viscose, lyocell, and modal, click on right here.

IS LYOCELL SUSTAINABLE? SHOULD I USE IT IN MY BRAND?

Are you searching for sustainably sourced textiles? It is perhaps best for you. Or, possibly not. 

It actually depends upon you and your values. 

If you understand me, then you understand I’m a real believer that nothing and all the pieces is sustainable. 

The proper reply for each model depends upon what the top use of the product is, and the professionals and cons of the choice. 

That’s the reason I took the time to create a lot high-level, textile science, data on this article. I didn’t simply wish to inform you, hey Lyocell is a closed loop system, and it doesn’t use petroleum; omg, so sustainable use it. I need you to study the details and make your personal choices for your self. 

WHERE TO BUY LYOCELL FABRICS

Eager about utilizing Lyocell, or branded Tencel Lyocell cloth in your line? Listed here are among the finest methods to supply the materials you might be searching for.

• Begin with Lenzing: Lenzing is….They’ll have the ability to direct you to cloth producers of their provider matrix. They is perhaps slightly extra pricy, however if you purchase from them, you understand that the cellulosic supplies going into their system are usually not damaging the planet and resulting in deforestation, making this course of extra environmentally pleasant.
• Birla Excel: The little recognized competitor of Lenzing is Excel fibers by Birla. “Birla Excel is constructed from a singular closed-loop course of the place the byproducts are fully reused, thereby minimizing discharge and lowering environmental affect. Designers swear by this resilient, wash & put on cloth because it imparts fantastic lustre, drape and softness. Its distinctive propensity to fibrillate may be managed or accentuated for aesthetic versatility.”

ADDITIONAL FIBER RESOURCES

Need to study extra about different kinds of sustainable fibers? I acquired you.

• Rayon: all the pieces you could possibly probably ever wish to learn about all of the totally different sorts of rayon.
• Recycled cotton: execs and cons, and knowledge on if it’s a commercially viable possibility to assist clear up trend provide chains.
• Recycled polyester: Is it actually simply greenwashing? Spoiler, kinda.
• Modal: a complete breakdown, identical to this text, however on modal as an alternative.

WHAT DO YOU THINK?

Do you propose to make use of Lyocell or Tencel Lyocell cloth in your model? Let me know within the feedback!