this sketch [from Yohji Yamamoto’s fall 1988 collection] (greater than) It is a lie. Though she is a lady, she seems to be like a person. In a means, that turned my entire message.I’ve at all times been an enormous fan of it [of the German choreographer Pina Bausch] As a result of, in her work, she feels proud and slightly indignant on the similar time. However once we talked, she was very mild.In preparation for the corporate’s twenty fifth anniversary [in 1998], she despatched me a telegram: “Yohji, do one thing about this.” That was it.so i did Pina’s costumes for the present (backside, proper).shortly earlier than her demise [in 2009]”I suffered quite a bit,” she stated. She by no means complained, and at some point she yelled.

I like this picture of me [the French Tunisian couturier] Azzedine Araya (prime, left) For the reason that mid-Nineteen Nineties. We’re nearer than brothers.After I began my menswear line [in 1984], he gave me his area to carry out. I had loads of respect for him, however I by no means noticed him as a competitor. We now have utterly totally different concepts about the right way to costume.That is from My first womenswear present (above, heart) In Paris in 1981. At the moment, I did not know what to do or the right way to do it.I made a decision to keep away from utilizing colours – simply white, grey or black – as a result of I used to be born in Kabukicho [a popular district among Tokyo sex workers], the place drunken males go to talk up ladies carrying brightly printed attire. So many colours make me drained.

After I was about three years outdated, I found I had no father. He fought in World Struggle II however didn’t return. I bear in mind my mom being compelled to plan a funeral. I used to be so indignant at everybody for letting her do that. She nonetheless believed he would come residence. I used to be raised by her and an aunt who had no youngsters. My aunt inspired me to start out making music after I was within the second grade of junior highschool.i made this album [“Your Pain Shall Be Your Music”] (above, higher left nook) In 1997, it was boring to only sing about happiness. The identical goes for artwork.That is one [Francisco de] Goya’s ugliest work [“Saturn Devouring His Son,” 1820-23] (above, heart), I am jealous of it. I requested myself: “Are you able to design one thing ugly?” However no, I can not. Though his works are additionally ugly, I do not like Picasso very a lot. He used so many methods till he lastly discovered Cubism.That is Constructing flooring (prime, backside left) We had been doing a menswear present there. I was indignant at my father for giving me my title – “Yohji” is tough to put in writing in Chinese language characters – however after I noticed this, it had allure.I like bob dylan (prime, proper) Due to his protest spirit. He got here into my retailer as soon as. I requested him, “Aren’t you coming to my present?” He stated no. He was good-looking, however not a lot taller than Paul Simon.

After I meet somebody, I do not wish to see their entrance or again.I favor Facet view (prime, proper).There is a cause they name it a psychological profile: the facet view [seen here in a sketch for Yamamoto’s spring 1987 men’s show] There’s a narrative to inform, that’s why I really like designing like this. I began drawing as a toddler as a result of I used to be at all times alone.I most popular studying tales about unhappy folks and ultimately, I arrived at [Fyodor] Dostoevsky’s The Brothers Karamazov (1880) (above left). I used to be undoubtedly influenced by Russian literature, however there are such a lot of characters in Russian literature. It is exhausting to recollect their names and so they discuss quite a bit.

This interview has been edited and condensed.