Maiko Kurogouchi moved to Tokyo from Nagano Prefecture about 20 years in the past, however her roots within the mountains and snows of western Tokyo nonetheless reside on in her style designs. “After I return to my hometown, I am impressed to create,” she mentioned.
These female, flowing items replicate her recollections, travels, and every day life—experiences that make her an attention-grabbing particular person to show to for vacation present recommendation.
Ms. Kuroguchi, 38, attributes her skilled acumen, particularly her respect for craftsmen’s abilities, to her expertise designing girls’s collections at Issey Miyake after graduating from Tokyo Bunka Trend Institute.
In 2010, she launched her personal girls’s ready-to-wear model known as Mame (a Japanese phrase that means “bean” or “little”, a nickname she acquired whereas learning at Bunka). Then, in 2018, she modified the model identify to its present kind: Mame Kurogouchi. It incorporates her signature textile appears to be like: floral jacquards, intricate knits and detailed embroideries, in addition to plunging necklines and daring slits, which she says are designed to empower the wearer.
She debuted her spring 2024 assortment throughout Paris Trend Week in September at Ogata, a chic Japanese teahouse and restaurant within the metropolis’s Marais district. Titled “Fragments,” the gathering options embossed patterns, shimmering organza and lightweight tones that recall the glazes of her favourite porcelain, Imari porcelain produced on Kyushu, considered one of Japan’s southernmost islands. and coloration.
Over the previous few years, Ms. Kurokawachi has recurrently labored with Uniqlo, utilizing knitting expertise to create subtle designs for mushy clothes that cross the road between underwear and clothes. She has additionally not too long ago designed massive curtains and screens for Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Fukuoka, working with Kyoto craftsmen who used historic dyeing methods on the screens.
At some point in late October, a heat and delightful time of 12 months in Tokyo, we went buying in Aoyama.
Crammed with boutiques, cafes, and galleries, Aoyama attracts locals and vacationers alike, however has a extra subtle and unique vibe than the close by Shibuya neighborhood. (Truly, that’s the place I’m going after I wish to see the best-dressed folks in Tokyo.)
Aoyama means blue mountain in English and was named after a samurai who served within the Tokugawa Shogunate (1603-1868) and is claimed to have lived within the space.
I met Ms. Kurokawachi at her model flagship retailer in Aoyama, which is Designed by Teruhiro Yanagihara and opened in January. It is situated in a brick constructing on a quiet road, only a quick stroll from the bustle of Omotesando Avenue. The very first thing customers see is a miniature backyard stuffed with timber and moss that evokes the panorama of her native Nagano.
Ms. Heiguchi mentioned that though her store is right here, she additionally involves the world when she wants to purchase items as a result of “there are such a lot of charming outlets right here,” together with clothes and way of life shops. arts and sciencesand Mizuhomaking conventional Japanese desserts.
And, she added, “I like Inexperienced Mountain as a result of you will discover the whole lot inside strolling distance.”
Kurokawachi actual plums
Rope embroidered ‘Hanakago’ mini tote
Ms. Kuromizouchi mentioned that for these searching for a present, she would advocate her “Hanakago” mini tote, a handbag with a 37.5-centimetre (14.8-inch) strap that is lengthy sufficient to slide over the shoulder.
“I used to be impressed by previous Japanese flower baskets,” she mentioned, displaying off a navy blue model (it is also obtainable in black). “I used to be considering that if I have been to make use of these baskets in trendy life, we would wish a softer texture, so I selected these strings, that are like shoelaces.”
She’s referring to using acrylic threads woven and coiled in a sequence of patterns on the outside of the bag, which measures 17 centimeters tall and 19 centimeters huge (51,700 yen, about $317 within the U.S.).
“It is an embroidery approach made by artisans in Kanagawa Prefecture,” situated in southern Tokyo, she mentioned. “I usually collaborate with them on embroidery items. It appears to be like like leather-based, would not it? I feel it is an ideal present to introduce Japanese historical past and craftsmanship.”
However what if a purse is not the best present?
In its place, Ms. Kurogouchi recommends the Lichen × Mame Kurogouchi Candle L, which is constructed from soy wax and pure important oils (together with peppermint and rosemary) and is available in a jet black Arita ceramic container with a lid.It was created in collaboration with Japanese perfumers Lichen (24,200 yen).
“This candle was impressed by the surroundings of my hometown of Nagano, the place there may be lovely winter snow,” she mentioned. “I wished to precise the distinction between my eyes feeling very chilly from the winter surroundings, however my physique feeling heat from the fireside flames or heater. I actually like that distinction.”
The collaboration additionally contains an eau de parfum constructed from a wildflower known as “fujibakama” (“aromatic eupatorium” in English), and ethanol constructed from rice. “Typically, after I strive perfumes from different firms, I feel they’re too alcoholic,” she mentioned. “However this rice ethanol jogs my memory of the drinks we drink on the shrine on New Yr’s Day.”
Leaving the store, we walked down a road lined with residences, boutiques, magnificence salons and a comfort retailer – the street was so slim that we needed to give method a number of occasions to let vehicles go. It is one of many capital’s so quiet areas that it is arduous to imagine you are within the coronary heart of Tokyo. A couple of minutes later we arrived at our subsequent cease.
Shihara
In a method, the Shihara flagship retailer, housed in an L-shaped constructing that features a store, gallery space and workplaces, embodies the model’s glossy and streamlined jewellery.
Rosemary shrubs and pine timber line the outer courtyard, giving it a peaceable really feel. Inside, the jewellery is displayed in two central rows of floor-to-ceiling glass cupboards. Workers put on white lab coats.
Ms. Kuroguchi and the model’s designer, Yuta Ishihara, met in Tokyo practically 20 years in the past. “Once we first began working, we used to share a rented artist studio in an previous Japanese home,” she says. “We began collectively and now we’re all creating one thing completely different.”
She confirmed me a pearl stud earring, which the model calls a half-pearl earring. “I noticed the total moon final night time and it jogged my memory of this earring,” she mentioned, touching her left earlobe to indicate off hers. “I like the form, it is so completely different.”
7mm Akoya pearls partially encased in 18 karat gold; obtainable in 5 variations, every with a unique seen ratio of pearl to gold.
“The moon is essential in Japanese tradition, so I believed it will make a significant present to somebody,” Ms. Kurokouchi mentioned. “Pearls are an iconic component in jewellery, they’re basic, elegant and appropriate for all ages and genders.”
The earrings are offered as a single earring in the US for 52,800 yen (roughly US$467). Shihara’s on-line retailer ships worldwide, and the vary is stocked in Lane Crawford and Dover Road Market shops in Hong Kong.
Earlier than leaving Shiyuan, we returned to the courtyard and entered the adjoining artwork gallery to admire some mild constructions Michael AnastasiadesThe Cyprus-born designer, now residing in London, has collaborated with Shihara on a jewellery assortment.
East Room
It was already tea time so we stopped on the Aoyama outpost within the east room.Positioned on a aspect road, this small store makes a speciality of conventional sweets known as Japanese confectionery. There are numerous variations of those little treats; substances change primarily based on seasons, holidays, and festivals.
Behind the white noren (flag-like curtains) that sometimes grasp on the entrance to Japanese shops, the fragile confectionery is displayed on a glass counter (¥3,348 for 5 items in a picket field; obtainable for supply inside Japan).
“It is a seasonal wagashi known as kakigoromo, it is my favourite,” she mentioned, pointing to a plate of plump little pillows. “It is constructed from dried persimmons in my hometown of Nagano Prefecture. In rural Japan, many individuals grasp the persimmons to dry within the winter. After a number of weeks, they get a white coating and develop into Very sugary.
“The filling here’s a slice of cream and white purple bean paste,” she mentioned, referring to the white bean paste within the persimmon.
Kakigoromo is a winter wagashi that’s solely obtainable from October to January. The persimmons have a chewy texture and are sprinkled with glutinous rice flour.
She additionally identified yokan, a thick, gelatinous sweet constructed from purple beans. “I at all times hold some in my bag in case I don’t have a lot time to eat.”
Once we returned to her store and sat down a couple of minutes later, we had kakigoromo, a candy pumpkin-like persimmon taste mixed with salty butter and creamy purple bean paste. After taking a chew, Ms. Kurokouchi closed her eyes and mentioned “shiawase,” which suggests happiness in Japanese.
“It jogs my memory of my grandma, who used to eat persimmons as a snack,” she mentioned. “Rising up, I did not actually like them and at all times wished other forms of snacks, however now that I am older, I actually respect them.”
Kamakura Six Service provider
Kamakura Rokusho is a gallery and flower store that opened earlier this 12 months, nevertheless it’s situated within the seaside city of Kamakura, a two-hour practice trip south of Tokyo. “We did not have time to go there immediately, however I wished to incorporate the bouquets that I like,” Ms. Kurokawachi mentioned of her present checklist, displaying me an image on her iPad.
This bouquet regarded identical to the one I noticed on the primary flooring of the shop on the best way in.
“I do not like massive and fussy flower preparations. After I opened my flagship retailer in Aoyama, I wished to welcome company with flower arrangements. A pal really helpful them,” she mentioned, pointing to the flower preparations, which included Japanese gentian, wild grape and grass. “My grandma used to rearrange flowers so much, and I like pure flowers organized within the Japanese method.”
Wanting again on the picture on her iPad, she mentioned, “This particular bouquet accommodates wild flowers from Nagano. After I go house for a stroll, I usually see these flowers on the roadside. The proprietor picked them himself, and the bouquet comes with the vase (19,800 yen) ~38,500 yen).
“They will ship them wherever in Japan. I like giving these flower preparations to my mother and grandma on particular events like Mom’s Day. It is slightly piece of artwork.”
