When Stéphane von Gunten debuted his personal watch firm, he created a mannequin that highlighted what he Stated to be the “first pillar” of a brand new watch. Haute-Rive Model: “Respecting Custom.”

He did not must look additional than his household tree for inspiration.

In a method, his first watch, referred to as the Honoris I, was a sequel to the historic watch created by his great-great-grandfather Irénée Aubry. This watch is known as “La Montre du Pape” (“The Pope’s Watch” in English). It was commissioned by the Swiss Canton of Jura in 1887 as a present to Pope Leo XIII. The pocket watch, which might preserve time for 40 days on a single winding, is believed to be in a personal assortment. (Mr. Aubrey was additionally chargeable for a patent behind Hebdomas, a well-liked eight-day watch within the early twentieth century.)

Mr. von Gunter’s new watch combines a flying tourbillon (a mechanism that counteracts the impact of gravity on timekeeping accuracy) and an influence reserve of 1,000 hours, or 41 days.

He mentioned the ability reserve is a record-breaking feat for a timepiece utilizing a single mainspring and tourbillon. (When a watch is wound, the mainspring is coiled; its unwinding generates the power to run the watch, so watches that run longer usually will need to have a number of mainsprings.)

The brand new watch is provided with a bezel that secures the watch mirror across the outer fringe of the dial. Mr. von Gunten mentioned he selected this technique over the standard winding course of utilizing the crown (the small knob on the surface of the watch case) as a result of it gives better torque: “We’d like fewer revolutions (roughly 60 circle) to completely wind the watch.”

Moreover, whereas most watches with tourbillons and lengthy energy reserves require comparatively thick circumstances, the Honoris I’s case is comparatively compact, measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and 11.95 mm thick (1.7 inches extensive by 0.5 inches thick) .

This costume watch is accessible in 18-karat white, yellow or rose gold, with a white or black Grand Feu enamel dial (Grand Feu enamel requires a number of firings of a number of layers of enamel powder on the metallic floor). It’s priced at CHF 148,000 (USD 167,955).

Though he was born in La Chaux-de-FondsThe Swiss city’s historical past is carefully tied to the watchmaking business, with its structure and structure tailor-made to the wants of the business, and Mr. von Gunten mentioned he was not centered on his ancestors’ work as a younger man. “Possibly I haven’t got sufficient expertise to grasp how wonderful it’s,” he mentioned.

That modified about two years in the past, when his cousin confirmed him a newspaper clipping about Mr. Aubrey’s work. This rediscovery set Mr. von Gunten on the trail to founding his personal firm (which shares the identical identify as Aubrey’s, Haute-Rive, a reference to its location on a excessive, dry web site on the once-flooded Lake Neuchâtel on the river financial institution).

“For me, this was a revelation, as a result of rising the ability reserve has at all times been a spotlight in my watchmaking,” he mentioned. “After I realized somebody in my household was already a grasp of lengthy energy reserve watches, I believed I’d attempt to proceed that work.”

He mentioned Mr Aubrey’s achievement was outstanding as a result of it had been achieved “utilizing outdated instruments, virtually no microscopes, no measuring instruments, and many others.”

Mr. von Gunton, who has benefited from the expertise, mentioned his problem “was to attain the identical energy reserve in a wearable watch.” The Honoris I, which debuted throughout Geneva Watch Week in August, is almost three inches smaller in diameter than Pope’s Watch. 1/2, however the energy reserve is 24 hours longer. Though the design is totally different, the fluted bezel of the brand new timepiece is impressed by the unique.

Present Haute-Rive manufacturing strategies do resemble the cottage business operations of Mr. Aubry’s time: elements are made by suppliers, and meeting is essentially executed on a contract foundation by one among Mr. von Gunten’s cousins ​​and an impartial watchmaker. Solely 10 watches are produced per yr.

Mr. von Gunten is promoting the watch personally at chosen occasions and plans to work with a community of small retailers. It’s already obtainable by means of Indian luxurious watch chain Ethos. “As a result of I am small, being near the top buyer is a bonus for me,” he mentioned. “I can try this and even go to the top buyer to elucidate how the watch works.”

Embracing conventional strategies and supplies may be thought-about a shocking transition for Mr. von Gunten, 46, whose profession has included some vital cutting-edge work.

In 2005, he designed the Franck Muller Completely Loopy watch, which displayed the time and date within the unsuitable order, so the fingers needed to leap totally different distances as time modified. From 2005 to 2007, he labored at Patek Philippe on the staff that developed Spiromax, a hairspring manufactured from silicon derivatives. He had the longest tenure at Ulysse Nardin, with greater than 12 years, and was promoted to Director of Analysis and Innovation.

Markus Hansen, portfolio supervisor at Vontobel’s High quality Development Boutique in New York, mentioned the present state of the business: The ready listing for sought-after watches is lengthycould show useful to Mr. von Gunten’s model.

The scarcity of standard timepieces, he mentioned, “has allowed loads of small and area of interest firms to develop a enterprise mannequin as a result of they’ve merchandise that individuals are searching for.”

He mentioned these manufacturers, which have a sure stage of “heritage” and manufacturing integrity, change into highly regarded in their very own proper, giving consumers bragging rights when buying uncommon items. “It is virtually like artwork,” he mentioned. “These within the know will know what you are carrying.”

When Mr. von Gunten was getting ready to arrange his personal firm some 18 months in the past, one of many first individuals he contacted was Patrik Hoffmann, who had been Ulysse Nardin’s chief govt throughout Mr. von Gunten’s tenure. (Ulysse Nardin) CEO.Mr. Hoffman now owns a consulting agency and serves as govt vp for Europe watch field, A platform for second-hand luxurious watches.

On the time, Hoffman mentioned, von Gunton “had a narrative and an idea,” however little else. “It was all on paper.” Nonetheless, he signed on as an investor and put Mr. von Gunten in contact with potential backers. He now serves on Haute-Rive’s board of administrators and describes himself as a “coach” for the rising model.

Mr. Hofmann mentioned he was within the idea of Honoris I, however extra compelling was Mr. von Gunton’s observe report.

“There are various younger watchmakers who’ve established their very own manufacturers,” he mentioned. “They got here up with a extremely nice idea or look, however it wasn’t sufficient to change into a watch model.”

Mr. von Gunton, against this, is a tried and examined determine. “I do know him,” Mr. Hoffman mentioned. “He was concerned in so many patents and developments that went in each path. I knew it wasn’t going to finish with simply the thought of ​​a 1,000-hour energy reserve.”

Mr. von Gunten mentioned he had no mounted thought of ​​the place the corporate ought to go. “I’ve some concepts for the subsequent two or three years, however that is about it,” he mentioned.

Nonetheless, its subsequent watch could stray away from the traditional mannequin. “I may do one thing extra modern,” he hinted.

For now, although, he is content material to have the ability to deal with Haute-Rive and its reception. “I am excited to share the expertise behind the watch,” he mentioned. “I am actually having fun with the journey.”