Vivienne Westwood’s fall 2023 present, held on the Lodge de la Marine in Paris, was one of many model’s most emotional but. As the primary presentation from the label for the reason that founder’s passing in December 2022, her life companion and co-designer, Andreas Kronthaler, paid tribute to the legendary designer via archival motifs that pulled from the heritage of the model. In the meantime, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jared Leto, and plenty of extra stars confirmed up within the Dame’s reminiscence—sitting entrance row to soak up the gathering.

“It’s my very private tribute to her,” Kronthaler informed W backstage. “I feel it’s a really useful course of to undergo one thing like this. I can create a brand new scenario for myself. However for the time being, it’s simply nonetheless an odd interval.”

The Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood line (beforehand referred to as Gold Label assortment till 2016, when it was renamed) was famously a collaboration by Kronthaler and Westwood for the reason that ’90s. The autumn 2023 assortment is the final Vivienne Westwood assortment that Westwood herself really touched earlier than she handed away. “She nonetheless labored on it somewhat bit,” famous Kronthaler. “I simply maintain pondering of her. Will she prefer it or is she going to put on it? I’ve at all times made all the things along with her in thoughts.”

The present opened with a shirt bearing a print of Westwood’s face, paired with a mini skirt and platform footwear that took inspiration from the sky-high Tremendous Elevated Ghillie heels that Westwood invented. Home fashions who labored with Westwood for the reason that starting—like the long-lasting Sara Stockbridge—wore leggings and cardigans impressed from the archives, and shed tears because the present closed. The ultimate look noticed Vivienne Westwood’s granddaughter carrying a corset and bloomer marriage ceremony getup whereas carrying somewhat bouquet of white flowers.

All through the gathering, there have been delicate references to Westwood’s huge physique of labor—from takes on the corset to the tartan and tweeds. The subversive punk subculture she delivered to style lived on via oversize outerwear and strapless, molded attire. Right here, the notorious Mini-Crini was reinvented and subverted into an extended size.

Westwood was famously an activist, and this assortment bore components of her political historical past when it got here to the supplies; the clothes had been constructed solely of upcycled materials that in any other case would have been waste. “They’re issues which might be too good to eliminate,” Kronthaler defined. “They’re generally simply half the meter of a very nice silk. All I may make was little scorching pants, little tailor-made knickers. We collected vintage issues from the 18th century to provide them a brand new lease on life.”

By way of what’s subsequent for the model, Kronthaler will likely be shifting ahead on the helm, hopefully persevering with to pay tribute to probably the most legendary designers of all time. However within the meantime, he’ll be taking a trip and trying to give up smoking.

Previous seasons of Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood have proven that his personal aesthetic can generally verge on extra earthy and darker than Westwood’s unique look–maybe even a bit much less female. However right here, with every bit that got here down the runway, Kronthaler instilled function and intent to design inside the Westwood mind set. An important reference, nevertheless, had been the billowing, massive petticoat skirts worn by all genders. “She beloved the skirts,” Kronthaler mentioned. “As a result of the way in which they simply transfer round and what they do with the physique. For those who sit down, they take up house.” The skirts had been particular statement-makers and eye sweet in a sea of pants and robes. There’s one thing intentionally fussy and extremely female about massive skirts—it’s no surprise Kronthaler associates them with Westwood. Within the present notes, the ultimate line acknowledged: “Perhaps an important factor you ever taught me was to place the lady on a pedestal.”