Check Your Neck: A GQ Dress-Shirt Primer

The collar is where a dress shirt announces itself. And whether you realize it or not, you've likely struggled with one that's too tight or too floppy or that can't stand up to a ginormous tie knot. As hip-hop's newest star, Drake, shows us, it's time you learned how to find the right collar for your style, your comfort, and, oh yeah, your neck

By gq.com

February 21, 2010

Photo: Paola Kudacki
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First Step: Get Measured
Even if you think you know your neck size, check the tape. And while you're at it, get your arms measured, too. Dress shirts are sized by neck and sleeve measurements. Know yours.
Shirt by Ralph Lauren Black Label, $325. Watch by IWC.
Photo: Tom Schierlitz
2/11
Collar I.D.
There are plenty of collar shapes out there (see: ESPN). But these are the four modern ones you should stick to. And here's why.
The Straight Point
Think superminimal American style, not the oversize, big-tie-knot Italian look.
Club Monaco, $59.

Photo: Tom Shierlitz
3/11
The Spread
Got a Wall Street power suit? Pair it with a spread collar and a substantial tie.
Façonnable, $135.
Photo: Tom Shierlitz
4/11
The Button-Down
The old-school, all-American look. Has never gone out of style and never will.
Etro, $275.

Photo: Tom Shierlitz
5/11
The Semispread
Perfectly balanced. Not too wide or narrow. Not too hip or square.
Ralph Lauren Black Label, $325.
Photo: Paola Kudacki
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The Can't Miss Collar—and How to Check for Fit
**Our Favorite Style
We favor semispreads, because they're the perfect compromise among all the options on the previous slide—and they'll suit every face and style. Drake could wear this shirt to dinner or a meeting.
The Litmus Test
So your salesman has measured you and pulled a shirt you like. Great. Still, try it on. Make sure you can comfortably fit one finger between the collar and your neck. If two fingers fit, the collar's too big.
Shirt by Spurr, $285. Tie by Dsquared², $175.**

Photo: Tom Shierlitz
7/11
Stock Your Collar Tool Box
Collar Stays
They keep your collars neat and in place. Stays should come out before your shirts get laundered and go back in when the shirts return clean. Keep one set on your dresser and one in your Dopp kit.
Shout Advanced Ultra Gel
We all get it: that sweat stain on the inside collar. Brush this stuff over the stain before you toss your shirts in the laundry to kill the yellow.
Photo: Paola Kudacki
8/11
Don't Let This Happen To You
Just because a shirt has a collar and long sleeves doesn't make it a dress shirt. If you try to wear a tie with one of your fashionably rumpled weekend shirts, the result will be a cinched neck and flyaway collar points. Not cool.

Photo: Paola Kudacki
9/11
The Logic of Proportion: Small Collar? Skinny Tie
The size of your collar should sync up with the size of your tie. If you dig skinny ties with small knots, go for an equally small collar. And slim lapels on your jacket.
Shirt by Emporio Armani, $295. Tie by Emporio Armani, $120.
Photo: Paola Kudacki
10/11
The Logic of Proportion: Big Collar? Wide Tie
A larger collar calls for a fuller tie knot and a wider tie (just don't go full lobster bib). And yes, proportion should hold throughout: Note Drake's chunky gold Rolex.
Shirt by Tom Ford, $595. Tie by Tom Ford, $220.

Photo: Paola Kudacki
11/11
Going Tieless
When suited up—but not knotted up—you need a stiffer collar that won't slip under your jacket.
Shirt by Thomas Pink, $150. Suit by Dolce & Gabbana, $2,095.